Now sold.

Many thanks for the suggestions, which I will try out.

Interesting to note that MG modified the gear stick on later models with a large weight on the shaft to act as a damper! (Part 62 in the diagram)

Please see details at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184423588053

Steven,

Logically it might be worth checking your vacuum and mechanical advance is working correctly?

These videos from Moss demonstrate a couple of tests - https://youtu.be/j3TdDGzo_Ig https://youtu.be/cFfnenMFQ3U

Tom

Peter mentioned he thought the maximum wattage for main beams was 60W and 55W for dipped. This gave me thought, as Clausager says that after 1970 sealed beam headlights ("improved type") were fitted of 75W. In fact, I can't find any legislation stipulating a maximum wattage (but maybe I haven't look...

Many thanks Peter. As you say, surprisingly complicated!

Sorry to hijack this thread a little, but can anyone explain body numbers to me? I don't mean the chassis number or the commission number. I'm thinking of the number on the small rivetted tag on the inner wing. Thanks.

There are already several drain holes in the chassis members of around 8mm diameter. The same is true of the castle rail. So I wouldn't personally be too worried about making a new, larger, one.

Ian's right, but a cheapo way to make a tap is to cut a slot into the head of a bolt with a hacksaw. The sharp edges then clean up the thread of the nut.

If the nut is still in place but has stripped then tapping it out to the next size up (5/16 from memory) seems the best option. If it's come adrift perhaps the hole Ian suggests might be easier to make from the underside directly beneath the bolt hole? A new nut could then be offered up in a socket....