Battery cut off switch

[Ian Fozzard]

Dave, you realise now that the cables don't come through the bulkhead at all? Just a hole for the cylinder of the battery switch "keyhole" part.

The dzus fasteners can be a bit awkward, especially if they have become worn or distorted. You can buy replacements of course. They are commonly used on race bikes for holding bodywork - very reliable!!

Ian F

[Dave Wheatley]

Got it now Ian - wasn't thinking straight. And thanks for Dzus - I call them something else!

[Charles Farran]

Dave,
One solution is to buy a new battery cover (similar to that sold by Moss). It simply replaces the original , is hinged with two easy ringed turn screws to open. (Not cheap,but a welcome Xmas present from my daughter a couple of years ago).
Cheers,
Charles

[Ian Fozzard]

Those fasteners with rings look like the Dzus fasteners used on race bike bodywork. Easy and quick to use.
Ian F

[Dave Wheatley]

That looks interesting Ian, thanks.

[Ian Fozzard]

https://www.speedyfasteners.com/Dzus_Fa ... /sf113.htm

Just one example of what you can get,

Ian F

[Remyd]

A really good mod for working in the electrical system, and also handy as an immobiliser if the switch is the removable 'key' type. You just need to be aware if you have passengers in the rear, or any bags stowed behind the seats, that the switch might accidentally get knocked, killing the ignition! Guess how I know...

I fitted mine with the key facing down when in use to minimize the risk of this happening!

[Remyd]

Thanks Ian and Tom.
I think fitting the key type switch should solve the accidental switch off problem.
Ian how did you route the negative cable to your cutoff switch? On my car, single 12v type, the negative terminal is towards the rear of the battery "box".

Hi Dave,
Basically what Ian said. I had the same problem, i bolted a new cable with two rings, one one the earth at the back of the battery compartment, ran the cable over the battery and bolted the second ring to the switch bolt. I was going to run it on the side of the battery but it was touching the part of the switch were the-ve cable was attached, didn't want to run the risk of anything happening if the insulation around the cable was to wear out. I connected the original -ve cable from the switch to the battery.
One thing, I used the original battery cable and found that I had to widen the hole on the ring to fit it on the switch.

[Charles Farran]

Ian,
Slightly off topic with regards to the cut off switch but by chance i have been considering getting a battery box (single type for a RB) which is easily fitted & modified to ensure proper ventilation & cable access as well as safely securing the battery to the original frame. These are sold by the usual providers in the UK.
They in turn are possibly supplied by a company who are on the internet - ClarkAndClarkinc.com - this is a US set up - on their site they separately sell the DZUS fasteners (with rings in like my hinged lid has) - theirs are stainless steel & a bit priecy , but useful for comparison.
Cheers
Charles

[Remyd]

I thought of it but at £50 or so a pop for what is essentially a plastic bucket, it is a bit pricey!
I’ve got tension straps to hold the battery in place.
Ian, I like your hinged cover, such a pain to have to lift and find somewhere to put the cover!
I might look into it or maybe hinge te existing cover I got in the future.