My 'New' engine.

[Hazza1190]

Hi Guys,

So after much deliberation I have decided against the V8 swap as my wallet simply doesn't allow it!
On my prior quest to find a V8 i spoke to a really nice chap with a factory V8 and a roadster that he was converting to a V8. It turns out that he was looking to sell the tuned B series that was in the car previously (Along with the webber carb, 123 ignition and ally sump) with approx 8-10k miles since rebuild. So, 500 mile round trip later i now have an 1860 ported engine that im really looking forward to using. It's definitely had a lot of money spent on it, it looks to be a Peter Burgess head, it has solid rocker spacers, performance camshaft (i'll need to take the timing cover off to find the exact make/model) and most exterior bolts have been changed to SS allen type bolts. All this for a very reasonable price (or so i believe). The engine was from a '78 car I believe and mine is a '73. The engine came with the flywheel and clutch. Is there anything that i need to be aware of (bar the engine mounting brackets, which i can swap from my old car) that i need to consider regarding backwards compatibility with my gearbox and or mounting it in the bay?

Another question if anyone knows, both my old engine and this new one have an 'F' stamped on the engine number plate (its punched into it after the fact, not empossed in the origional print), any ideas what this means?

Also i purchased the stainless steel exhaust. Does anyone know if it will fit my chrome bumper GT? As it originally came off a rubber bumper roadster.

Finally, can anyone suggest which core plugs to get? One of them looks suspect and id prefer to replace it!

[Paul Scott]

Is that a trick water valve or a dismantled one?

Regards
Paul

[Hazza1190]

Is that a trick water valve or a dismantled one?

Its a dismantled one

[Peter Cresswell]

Hi Harry,
From your description and pictures, that looks like a good purchase. An alloy sump is really good to have (and if it has the internal baffle tray that is even better!). The spacers between the rockers suggest it has been built with power in mind. As far as the core plugs go, there is one at the back of the engine which is impossible to change once the engine is installed in the car, so check this one very carefully.
If you lucky you might also have the strengthened rocker shaft pillars in positions 1 and 4. These support the end pillars on both sides so they are very good for reliability if strong valve springs have been fitted. See This picture from my engine:

You can also see a problem not often thought about when spacers between the rockers are fitted - the rockers turn upside down making it fiddly to fit the rocker shaft assembly unless you have 3 hands!
Looking at your pictures, there is a problem with the exhaust manifold blowing on the centre exhaust port, so check the fit very carefully when you refit the manifolds which look like they are a long centre branch system. I have found that using the alloy rocker cover can stop the inlet and exhaust manifolds from seating correctly against the cylinder head. They tend to tighten up fully against the rocker cover and then blow as can be seen in your picture.
I doubt if removing the front cover will reveal the identity of the camshaft. Mine is a Piper BP285 and I don't remember seeing any identification on the end of the camshaft. It would reveal it the engine builder has fitted a vernier cam drive sprocket though!
If it is a Peter Burgess modified head I would speak to him to see if the head is ready for a refresh after the 8-10K miles you think it has done. Peter generally uses 3 angle seats which can benefit from regular maintenance.
It should be a good engine to liven up your MGB though!
Pete

[Peter Cresswell]

Harry - I forgot to mention that I think you will need to change the thermostat housing to the one you have on your existing engine so the '73 top hose can be used.
Pete

[David Witham]

Harry if its a 1978 engine you may need to change the engine front plate to match your earlier mountings.

[Hazza1190]

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the reply!
Yeah im really happy with it, definitely worth the long journey! Im going to be removing the alloy sump and timing cover at some point so i will check for the baffles and will also check for the vernier cam sprocket which would be nice!
All other core plugs look perfect, no signs of any weeping/leaking and have a good shape to the, its just the middle one that looks a bit dodgy. Any recommendations on which ones to go for?
I noticed that my rocker shaft locating key (i think that's what its called? Shown in your picture too) doesn't have the retaining clip that goes over it? Im guessing that needs to be installed asap?
As far as i can tell i don't have the strengthened pedestals like you, it does, however, have double valve springs.

I have since noticed its a brand new county casting that apparently peter doesn't like working on, so the porting may not have been done by him. Once i have saved up more after my restoration i'll find a 2707 head to get the 'Peter Burgess' treatment.

Yeah I noticed the darkening around the middle exhaust port so i will definitely check it out once i come round to fitting the engine (a little while down the road yet, currently doing sills!

Cheers!
Harry.

[ChargedAutoGT]

you WILL need to change front engine plate as chrome engine mounts will not interchange and plates are quite different. you will need plate and the two brackets that hold the mounts.
G

[Hazza1190]

Hi guys,

So a little bit of a depressing update today... I'll start off with a bit of good news however. The ally sump is baffled and also I have removed the timing cover cover to find a Vernier Timing Gear which is nice. Also after removing the head, i noticed the pistons are +0.90. However..., in the corners of the cover in the crevasses I noticed some metal flakes that seem to be magnetic. I did notice a few in the sump and also in the sump, oil filter housing and in various places there is some distinct grey coloured sludgy oil that I can only presume is oil mixed with very very fine metallic dust.

Whats is me best options in this situation? I'm guessing its going to entail a complete bottom end tear down to check bearings? The cylinder walls are perfect with very nice crosshatching, if that's any consolation.

Cheers,
Harry.

[Ian Fozzard]

This is always one potential pitfall when buying an engine which appears to be reconditioned and "as new". You have to ask - why is it being sold?

An optimistic view - could be left over from when the engine was last machined, but I fear this is unlikely.

A realistic view - the engine needs to be stripped down and taken to an engine reconditioner who can carefully measure everything and see where the issues are. With luck, you will still have the base components of a good engine.

Ian F