Bought a Feb 1980 BGT.....Vermillion Red in colour

[Ian Smith]

Geoff Edwards wrote:
> Hi Ian,
>
>
> As regards your leaking carbs, I would take them off and assuming floats
> and needles seem OK, replace the float chamber gaskets which often leak -
> always seemed a silly design!
>
> Geoff

OK never taken Carbs off, A is it easy and B could the Float chamber gaskets be replaced with Carbs in Situ?

[Peter Cresswell]

Hi Ian
It is not difficult to remove the carbs, but it is a little bit fiddly. I usually remove them still attached to the inlet manifold by undoing the 4 brass nuts that hold the inlet manifold to the head, after disconnecting the throttle and choke cables at the lever on the linkages between the carbs, disconnect the main fuel line and take off the airfilters.
If your carbs are still the HIF type the fuel bowl is underneath so it is very difficult to work on the fuel bowls. If they have been changed to the HS type during the life of the car you can work on the fuel bowls without removing the carbs from the car.

[Ian Smith]

Thanks, i'll try removal - they are HIF4 I think with the square fuel bowl underneath, albeit I understand the gasket is circular, standard set up for this car bar the K&N filters on mine.

Should have new tyres on early next week, MOT getting closer.

Just noticed I cant lock doors despite key being correct (lock turns), assuming that's a simple door card off and adjust the linkages between the lock and the internal lock handle- this moves when wiggling key but not by much on both doors. Tailgate locks fine.

[Ian Smith]

Checked carb leak again - tightened up loose float chamber screws and seems OK now (famous last words).

Now I may need inspiration on this bit at the rear!:
Rear (and front) indicators work OK;
Both rear Brake lights work OK;
BUT
When I switch lights on, Position 1 (sidelights) on switch only NS rear light and No plate light come on;
When I switch to position 2 (headlights), the NSR lights go out - weird or what?

FRONT LIGHTS OPERATE OK

So I will try a new headlamp switch as that could be doing something odd. After that, any ideas - I have checked the earth lead behind the rear No plate and that's OK (as NS and brake lights work)?

Yes I have checked bulbs but in any case as its the No plate light as well that's unlikely. I also checked the earth leads to the fuel pump but again that's all working and there are no loose leads. I have also checked all connections at the back up to where the main cables disappear under rear seat and cant see any oddities underneath.
Fuses all checked.
Is there a rear/lights relay I should replace as well, if so where?
Thanks

Ian

[Ian Smith]

Found inspiration - via multimeter!
Broken red wire in boot - have rejoined aforementioned wire using proper connectors and we now have fully operating lights - another cheap fix!
Switch is still iffy so I'll still replace that anyway.

So now all I need to do is get fuel gauge working - there's a black wire from the sender unit mounted on the side of the tank that PO has connected to fuel pump earth, sure that's wrong - any ideas if the wiring for sender is easy and if it appears in boot or under the car? The wiring diagram, in the Haynes manual is really confusing!

...............possibly answered my own question, I think there's a +ve wire that should be connected to the sender main terminal (Green/Black)- I'm hoping its still there under the car!

Ian

[Ian Smith]

Hi Geoff, and others
Latest update.................I've been away and also have just not had much time to play with MG.

Sold 6" Minilites to a Staggie for what I paid for them.
Fitted new 'quiet' fuel pump (including rewiring the earth properly) and float gaskets - still leaking - seems to be rear carb. So I've bitten the bullet and bought a pair of rather smart recon carbs - I can then swap these over and fiddle with the current ones off the car before selling on to recoup some money -anyone want them with linkages (?)- unless I need one of them to sort the fueling issue on my TR8! I'm also putting in an inline fuel regulator.
Managed to get a set of LE wheels so they will go on ILO Rostyles - looks like Rostyles are almost worthless used so I may weigh mine in - again unless anyone wants some/one etc.
Started mopping paintwork with indifferent results so far but looks a whole lot better.
Almost sorted door latches (one done) they were seized so WD40 and fiddling seems to help, as will securing the locks with one of those kits to stop them spinning.
Fuel gauge now working properly - think Facet pump installation had messed a few things up - now sorted.

I did almost give up last week, but then looked at the car and the really top notch engine bay and interior and though - keep going, it will be MOTd!!

Ian

[Peter Cresswell]

Hi Ian,
Remember in your 'dark moments' it is a hobby! Damn frustrating at times but we are supposed to enjoy it.

[Ian Smith]

New carbs on, as is the fuel pressure regulator - car now runs sweetly without the fuel leakage.

Any tips on how to get to and undo the choke cable at the dash, I have released the radio/heater section but all my 20mm spanners are too long to undo the nut when I've got purchase on it?

I have heard that its easier to drill out the choke mounting but think thats a last resort - I will try WD40 and fingers but if its been in there for 36 years I suspect it may have seized, next step a shorter 20mm spanner but I haven't come across one yet.

Ian

[Peter Cresswell]

I must admit I cheated when replacing the choke cable. I left the outer cable in situ and just replaced the inner. I found it was easy to pull the cable out once it had been undone at the carb end. The downside is it doesn't lock in position so I have to use the BMC peg!
Congrats on the work you have done so far. It is really pleasing when jobs produce a positive result - as I think you will agree!

[Ian Smith]

Thanks Peter

I tried to cheat but the end of both in inners is frayed so I can't even put original back in- will keep trying! I had a peg and yearned for something better!

AND my choke was routed in from top of carbs through the end of the bracket that also secures the throttle cable, on the Interweb there are pics of the Choke being routed underneath and pulling down on the linkage - I'm playing safe and redoing what was working fine on mine before (ie cable from above, pulling up).....................does that sound right?

Ian